This may be the strangest restaurant review I've ever read. The Sunday Times' AA Gill reviews a new restaurant in London's Mayfair by talking about, what else?, Gill's most recent dining experience in Rome. The Mews of Mayfair gets three stars (out of five). Hosteria del Pesce? *Five.
*we can only assume five, because, again, the assignment presumably was to review the place around the corner, not obsess about Roman cuisine for the preceding 12 paragraphs. But, Il Sette Bello agrees with *the grade.
(*correction: changed "her grade" in previous post to "the grade." Il Sette Bello regrets the error.)